Traboules, passages that connect two parallel streets, are a trademark of Old Lyon. More than 300 traboules covering about 50 kilometers penetrate the hearts of neighborhoods and constitute an unsuspected means of crossing the city. Who would have thought that Lyon hides behind its walls a network of secret passages transforming the city into a giant maze? These small architectural wonders are said to take their roots in Roman times, but their true development dates back to the Renaissance in the Saint Jean and Presque'île quarters. A new period of expansion came in the 19th century in the Croix-Rousse quarter where the 140 traboules on the slopes continued the tradition in order to provide short-cuts for silk carriers. Lyon has, in fact, a long history of underground activity dating from the Roman sanitation conduits to the sewers of the 19th century, roadway and train tunnels, and the subway today. The word "traboule" may derive from the Latin transambulare, meaning "to pass through."

The traboules are an important element of local heritage and contribute to Lyon's reputation as a secretive city. But their original vocation is purely functional – a time-saving short-cut. History has made of them a setting for escapes and hideouts for protesters throughout the centuries – victims of religious persecution in the 16th century, non-juring priests during the Revolution, Canuts silk workers of the 19th century, World War II Resistance fighters – and popular imagination has filled them with an atmosphere of mystery and heroism, and the strange practices of secret societies.

Yet these paths that wind their way about the city often lead to pleasant surprises – decorative forged iron, a cross-ribbed vaulted ceiling, a spiral staircase, a charming view, a splendid door knocker, or an impost with heraldic emblems. Recently restored, the traboules are appreciated by local residents and attract many visitors. They give an alternative itinerary across the city.

If you are feeling adventuresome, we've located the following traboules in the Lyon 5th for you to explore:

27 rue du Boeuf to 54 rue Saint-Jean
68 rue Saint-Jean to 3 rue des Antonins
14 rue de la Bomarde to 31 rue du Boeuf
1 rue du Boeuf to 24 rue Saint-Jean
27 rue Saint Jean to 6 rue des Trois Maries
17 rue des Trois Maries to 20 quai Romain Rolland
17 quai Romain Rolland to 9 rue des Trois Maries
2 rue des Trois Maries to 21 rue Saint-Jean
2 place du Gouvernement to 10 quai Romain Rolland
3 place Saint-Paul to 5 rue Juiverie
8 rue Juiverie at the Galerie Philibert Delorme

Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee all traboules will be completely open – you may find the doors of certain buildings closed.

LA FORMIDABLE CHOUCROUTE

There's no single recipe and no universal preparation, even in Alsace, but choucroute garnie à l´alsacienne is the dish most often associated with the province. Cabbage is marinated for weeks in herbs and salt brine. Added zest comes from juniper berries, caraway seeds, freshly ground pepper, bouquet garni, bacon fat, and, in truly classic versions, a dollop or two of goose fat.

Choucroute and its perfect accompaniment, Riesling, are both products of Alsace. Potatoes and cabbage are produced locally and can be stored in barrels in a cool cellar through a long, cropless winter. Since the Middle Ages, local farmers have produced vast amounts of pork products, some traditionally smoked over fir or cherrywood fires to impart the earthy taste that permeates the shredded cabbage. The sanitized version you'll likely encounter in restaurants will include only the choicest cuts of pork.

So how does a connoisseur identify the best choucroute? A worthy version is easy to digest, is free of excess grease and acidity, and doesn't float on a lake of juices. The dish should be cooked carefully so the potatoes don't turn to mush, and the meat and marinated cabbage should gracefully blend so they coordinate with the flavors of an Alsatian Riesling. Enjoying it with a hearty glass or two of beer is a dignified alternative, but if you opt for other types of liquid accompaniments, you're likely to be labeled an infidel!

GLOBAL ROAMING

You want something that should be simple and straightforward – you want to make and receive phone calls while traveling out of the country. You want this to be convenient and simple, both for you and for the people trying to call you. You want good coverage so your phone always works and you want this to be affordable.

There are several options for staying in touch while abroad. In most cases the simple combination of a GSM cell phone and international SIM card will offer the best rates, coverage, and reliability.

GSM stands for Global System for Mobile Communications (originally from Groupe Spécial Mobile). GSM is the most popular standard for mobile phones in the world. GSM service is used by over 2 billion people across more than 212 countries and territories. The ubiquity of the GSM standard makes international roaming very common between mobile phone operators, enabling subscribers to use their phones in many parts of the world. There are now four different frequency bands used by GSM phones. Most countries outside the US use a combination of the 900 MHz and 1800 MHz frequency bands. But, unfortunately, here in the US, we use a combination of the 850 MHz and 1900 MHz frequency bands. When you're traveling internationally, for most flexibility, you should have a phone with both the international frequency bands – 900 MHz and 1800 MHz. If you plan on using it in the US, too, then you'll want a phone that also supports the 850 MHz and/or 1900 MHz.

The unique feature of GSM service is that it is not tied to your phone. With most phones you are familiar with, the phone is coded in such a way that it will only work with one wireless service provider. If you change wireless service providers, you have to change phones, too. A GSM cell phone is compatible with any GSM service provider that is running on the same frequency. Your unique account information is instead encoded into a removable chip – what is called a SIM (Subscriber Information Module). The wonderful convenience of this is that you can simply replace one SIM from one service provider with another SIM from another service provider, and your phone instantly starts working on the new service, and forgets all about being previously connected to the first service. This means you could, if you wished, travel to a dozen different countries, and with a dozen different SIMs, change your phone to work with each different country's phone service as effortlessly as it takes to unplug the chip and replace it with a new one as you cross each border. This is the real magic of GSM phones. You only need to buy one phone, and then can use as many different SIMs as you need for the countries you're visiting.

There are three ways you can get GSM phone service while traveling around the world.

Roaming with your US GSM phone: If you already have GSM service with a US wireless company (most modern AT&T, Cingular and T-mobile phones are GSM) then you can probably ask your service provider to switch on the global roaming feature and simply use your present phone and phone number anywhere in the world they have roaming agreements. But there are plenty of problems with this approach. Your US GSM phone might not work in many foreign countries. It will be expensive for you – you'll be paying anywhere from $1 to $6 per minute for every phone call you make or receive. Although it will be convenient for friends and associates back home to call you – they simply dial the number they already have – this means you'll be paying for all these non-essential calls, also at the same $1-6 per minute rates It will not be convenient for anyone in the countries you are visiting to call you. Even though you might be in the next hotel room, they will have to phone your US number to speak with you – making it an expensive international call for them as well as you.

Using pre-paid SIM cards for each country you visit: A pre-paid SIM card for each country you visit gives you a local phone number and local calling rates for calls within that country. It is easy, convenient, and relatively inexpensive for you to call other people in the country you're visiting, and easy and normal for them to call to you on your local number, too. Most services even offer you free incoming calls, so you can receive calls from people anywhere in the world at no cost to you. The cost of buying a SIM card is anywhere from about $30 - $60, and sometimes this includes some free call credits as well. You then simply pre-pay for extra call credits as you need them, often by a process as simple as just calling your credit card number in, over the phone, to the billing center for the phone service. Usually SIM cards stay active for six months or more, so if you're visiting a country regularly, you don't need to buy a new SIM for each visit. If you are visiting a lot of different countries during your journey, it can be confusing for other people to keep track of which country you're in and which number to call you at on any given day. This is where the next option can be more helpful.

Global Roaming service: A few phone companies have developed special SIMs you can use in a number of different countries, while paying relatively low rates for all calls in all the countries you visit. The benefit for both you and people seeking to call you is you have a single number that everyone, everywhere, can use to contact you, no matter which country you're in (assuming you're in one of the countries that participate in these programs). The compromise you make is that in return for a fixed number, you're going to be paying more to make and receive calls than you would with local SIMs.

We found a Global Roaming service called Telestial (www.telestial.com) that we are very happy with. They offer quite a variety of options, but we selected one of their budget-friendly promotional packages called the "Pack Lite." For $129 plus $10 shipping, you get an unlocked Siemens A70 tri-band GSM hand-set with charger, an Explorer SIM card for seamless international roaming in over 130 countries, starter airtime of $20, and a global plug adapter. The service includes global coverage, free incoming calls in 40 countries, free incoming SMS (text messages), and fully-featured voicemail. There is no contract and no monthly fee – the service is prepaid: you pay for the airtime you use and not a penny more – and you can see your call history online anytime. You can even arrange for additional airtime to be added automatically when your prepaid minutes fall below a specified level. You can provide family and friends with access through a toll-free number so they can call you without incurring international charges – you incur a per minute surcharge when this service is used. Your Explorer SIM card will remain valid for 12-months and every time you add airtime your validity is extended an additional 12-months.

Telestial is an excellent and responsive company, with a good range of phones, at good prices, and great service.