Meißen
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Unfired Onion-Pattern Dish |
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May 31
Meißen is one of the most photogenic cities in Germany. Unlike Dresden, it survived World War II almost unscathed. In the atmospheric Altstadt, a series of twisting and meandering streets are ideal for an aimless stroll. The centerpiece is the Markt, dominated by the Renaissance Rathaus. On its own small square to the side is the flamboyant, Gothic Frauenkirche, whose carillon, fashioned from local porcelain, can be heard six times daily. The church’s tower commands a superb view of the city and the Elbe. On the terrace just above is the celebrated Gasthaus Vinzenz Richter, a half-timbered old tavern which preserves an 18th-century winepress. The wines served here have the reputation of being the best in eastern Germany. In the demonstration workshop of the Staatliche Porzellan Manufaktur (formerly KPM), watch the three-centuries-old process of manufacturing white, hard-paste porcelain china and figurines. Every single piece is fashioned by hand from start to finish. There are more than 20,000 original Meißen pieces in the manufactory’s porcelain collection, providing superb examples on which reproductions are based. About 3,000 items are selected each year from this huge treasure trove and put on display in the Museum. The exhibition is never quite the same from one year to the next. The objects are of every imaginable size, from thimbles and large animal sculptures, to dinner and tea sets, candlesticks and vases almost seven feet high. Notice the minute attention to detail, the brilliance of the colors and the painters’ perfect rendering of countless different patterns and decorations. The 12-foot high table centerpiece made in 1749 for August III is as amazing as the gloriously over-the-top, Rococo fripperies made by the most talented artist ever employed there, Joachim Kändler. The manufactory outlet shop is full of tantalizing porcelain delights for your shopping pleasure. The Albrechtsburg is the first site of the Meißen Porcelain Manufactory. As legend has it, it also served as the prison of Johann Friedrich Böttger, the alchemist who was ordered by August the Strong to produce gold or die trying. Böttger did indeed produce gold - white gold - the first true European porcelain. The formula remains a closely-guarded secret to this day. Built between 1472 and 1525, the Albrechtsburg is a fine example of the late Gothic style. The manner of the draped-arch windows was considered very modern for that time. Our hotel - the Pannonia - is a lavish, 1870 Jugendstil villa overlooking the Elbe and the Albrechtsburg. Take your rest in the peaceful gardens and enjoy the local porcelain displayed in abundance throughout the hotel. |