Children, by imitating grown-ups in their play, learn about becoming adults - the theme of the Hessian Doll Museum. Every facet of daily life is portrayed through dolls, dolls' clothing and accessories, and a complement of doll-scale toys, in a lovely, arcaded building overlooking the beautiful park of Wilhelmsbad spa. The development of the European doll from early Greek and Roman figures to a 1580 wooden doll, Schoenhut clowns, and celluloid Käthe Kruse dolls are presented in both permanent exhibits and special exhibits that change three times a year. A few special dolls include a pair of KR 116A boys in original costume, a collection of paper dolls, clothing displayed on pull-out doors, Teddy bears, lots of doll-sized china, 493 tiny, folded-paper dolls posed under paper cherry blossoms in an elaborate Japanese scene, and complete, turn-of-the-century department store in miniature.

     The Rheingau is one of Germany’s most renowned wine regions, of which Rüdesheim is the capital. Angling up from the river toward the romantic old town is the region’s most famous Weingasse, the extraordinary Drösselgasse. This narrow, 200-yard-long, cobbled lane is lined with cozy wine taverns and rustic restaurants. At the end of the Drösselgasse is an interesting music box museum where it is sometimes possible to join a scheduled tour, but it is more likely to be in German or French than in English.

     Above Rüdesheim stands a colossal stone statue of Germania, the heroically-proportioned woman who symbolizes the unification of the German Empire in 1871. She was almost blown to smithereens during her dedication ceremony when an anarchist tried to destroy her along with the assembled dignitaries, which included the Kaiser and Bismarck. In true comic opera style, however, a rain shower put out the fuse on the bomb and all survived.

     The highlight of our day cruise down Father Rhein is chatting with fellow passengers and taking in no less than twelve ancient castles and the mythical Loreley from the open air deck of our Köln-Düsseldorfer paddle "steamer." Following our cruise, we ascend the heights of the Loreley for a sweeping panorama of the river.