Arnstadt gave Johann Sebastian Bach his first job as an organist in the Baroque church that now bears his name. The church has been renovated to commemorate the 250th anniversary of Bach’s death this year. A statue of the great man watches over the small market square of this very well-preserved little town.

     The Schloßmuseum, the former palace of Duchess Dorothea of Schwarzburg-Arnstadt, features the "Mon Plaisir" wax and wooden doll collection from the mid-1700s. Detailed vignettes provide glimpses into virtually every aspect of town life in Baroque Germany. Created by the Duchess and her many friends as a form of entertainment, there are more than 82 rooms containing more than 2,700 objects. More than 400 dolls enchant you. Look for the 250-year-old miniature loaves of bread and marvel at the floor-to-ceiling cooking and serving ware in the Court Kitchen. Consider that each and every doll and miniature item was created entirely by hand!

     Coburg is a jewel and surprisingly little-known. The town is most famous for the Saxe-Coburg-Gothas, a remarkable family that provided a seemingly inexhaustible supply of blue-blooded marriage partners to ruling houses the length and breadth of Europe. The most famous of these royal mates was Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria. Their numerous children, married off among Europe’s kings, queens, and emperors, helped to spread the tried-and-tested Saxe-Coburg stock even farther afield. There’s a statue of the high-minded consort in the Marktplatz, the main square. Legend has it that on a visit to her new husband’s hometown, Queen Victoria had the first flush toilet in Germany installed. Did you know that George V of England so wished to distance himself from Germany that in 1917, he changed the name of the English royal family from Wettin of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha to Windsor? It’s no accident that George V of England and Nicholas II of Russia looked like twins - they were, in fact, first cousins.

     Built in the 15th century, the Coburger Puppenmuseum was once a Capuchin monastery. After renovation, it became home to the remarkable collection of modern doll artist Carin Lossnitzer. The dolls are arranged chronologically, providing a sense of the development of both form and materials. Don't miss even one of the 38 rooms! A few uncommon dolls include the German Lilli, Barbie's predecessor; the Gebrüder Knock bonnet baby, made in Coburg; a rare Mothereau; the German 1810 Sonneberg wax-over-papier-mâché, which looks just like the English slit-head wax doll; and the superb collection of half dolls.

     The Marktplatz is ringed with gracious Renaissance and Baroque buildings. Look at the statue of the Bratwurstmännla on the early 16th-century Rathaus. The staff he carries is claimed to be the official length against which the town’s famous bratwurst sausages are measured. Try a bratwurst from one of the stands in the square. You won’t be disappointed. If you have an opportunity, visit the Schloß Ehrenburg where Prince Albert spent much of his childhood. It’s just off the square on Schloßplatz. For a taste of old Coburg, step into the 18th-century Loreley tavern opposite the Schloß Ehrenburg. The Loreley oozes history and serves up excellent local dishes. Ask for the local specialty, Coburger Klösse.

     Gisela Gutwill welcomes us to the Hotel Stadt. We highly recommend her cozy Backstüble restaurant. Service can be slow, but the food is outstanding and worth the wait. If you wish to explore, but don’t want to walk, there is a taxi stand a block away in front of the train station.